Sandy Secrets

OUI (Opinionated, Unusual & Incomplete) Guide to Southern Maine

There’s a time and a place for sharing.

Let’s say I was cracking into a gorgeous, freshly steamed pound-and-a-half lobster and you reached across the table to grab one of the claws. That, my (former) friend, is not a time for sharing. By contrast, if you were to ask me where you could fetch yourself such a lobster, I would see that as a wonderful opportunity to share my knowledge of southern Maine and, in so generously doing, reinforce out friendship.

I’ve been going to Maine for a week or two most summers since I was about the size of a beach ball. So you could say I’ve been ‘researching’ the region for roughly half a century. In that time, I’ve discovered a gem or two—and have fallen truly, madly, and deeply in love with this salty paradise. Everyone has a place in the world that makes them feel extra relaxed, extra alive, and extra happy. Maine is mine.

In truth, I had a moment of hesitation before writing this article. What if everyone decided to go there all at once? What if my sharing played a part in the ruin of this sublime stretch of New England coastline? For one, you could squeeze all my subscribers into a few lobster boats. So overwhelm is not an existential risk. And two, Maine has an uncanny ability to shake off devastating change (knock on wood). It evolves slowly and reluctantly, preferring the old ways over the newfangled and fancy. Like many other magnificent destinations, it’s under pressure. But the Maine I know today is shockingly consistent with the Maine of my memories.

Below, are my all-time personal favourites. My super duper sandy secrets. These are the things I do again and again and again. Every visit.

Some Basics

Maine is an enormous state with a fair amount of craggy coastline and a huge amount of forest, mountains, and lakes. When I say “southern Maine”, I’m talking about the gentle, beachy sliver of land from about Portland down to the New Hampshire border. And really, I’m only concerning myself with a small portion of that small portion—a bite of a slice of a loaf, if you will. While there’s something to be said for exploring and understanding the full swathe of a region or state or country, there’s equal value in focusing on just a small geography and digging deep into it. The latter has always been my approach to Maine and is the essence of these suggestions. When to go? July and August are peak season and, obviously, premium. June and September are much quieter (a pro or a con depending on what you’re looking for), but the weather is still lovely.

See & Do

• Goose Rocks Beach—GRB, as it’s known by those in the know (which now includes you), is the finest beach in Maine and one of my top beaches anywhere in the world. Truly. I realise that’s a highly debatable, wildly subjective claim. But if you prize delicate sand, a low-key summer community vibe, and genteel surf then you’ll absolutely love it. The gentle slope and crescent shape of the beach makes it ideal for kids and perfect for early morning strolls. The water? Yes, it’s cold—a welcome juxtaposition to the blazing summer heat. Go to GRB once and you’ll forever dream of returning.

  

  

  

• Parsons Beach—Another stunner. Parsons is smaller, wilder, and more of a secret. There are only a few (magnificent) homes on this sandy/pebbly beach and parking is minimal (half a dozen spots, at best). I find Parsons especially captivating on drab days when the sky is moody.

  

  

  

• Bike rides—Gently undulating, impeccably paved coastal and inland roads are abundant and ready-made for relaxed rides. Hugging the coastal road from Cape Porpoise down to Kennebunkport is always a joy. Eyeball the Bush (as in, POTUS 41 & 43) family compound on Walker’s Point, drool over rambling shingled summer homes, and slake your thirst for a cappuccino at Dock Square Coffee House in K’port (again, now you know). The coastal road just south of K’port is also lovely and eventually leads to several great stops, including Parsons Beach (see above) and other delights (see below).

  

  

• Hillcrest Golf—A mini par-3 course with a driving range. Weirdly, I’ve never actually played the pitch & putt, but the driving range has beckoned me for years. Rent a bucket of balls and try to hit the metal ‘Free Pail’ sign 100 yards or so away. You’ll know you have when you hear the loud ping. And you’ll win a free bucket of balls. I’ve nailed it only twice in 40+ years of trying. Grrr.

• Timber Island—This is the small island you’ll see off the north end of GRB. At low tide (about every ~12 hrs) you can wade through knee-to-thigh deep water to reach the island on foot. That sounds hairier than it is. And yet, there’s a wonderful sense of adventure as you circumnavigate (clockwise) the island collecting driftwood and looking for washed up lobster buoys.

  

• Biddeford Pool & East Point Audubon Sanctuary—Biddeford Pool is the next significant cluster of old money summer homes to the north of GRB. It’s a pretty place to walk or bike around and the surf at nearby Fortunes Rocks is some of the biggest around—great for boogie boarding and bodysurfing (but beware the riptide which can be nasty). My favourite find in Biddeford Pool is the East Point Audubon Sanctuary, at the eastern tip of the peninsula. To get there, find the narrow path off L.B. Orcutt Blvd (just before it bumps into Ocean Ave. and the ocean beyond) and walk half a kilometre to the spectacular rocky shoreline.

  

• Kennebunk’s Colonial Homes—If you’ve had too much sun and/or can’t get enough of the traditional New England architecture, follow Port Rd. from Kennebunkport inland to Kennebunk. Around the point where it turns into Summer St. you’ll start seeing one staggeringly beautiful old mansion after another. Each of these homes expresses a slightly different interpretation of the colonial style. All are shockingly well maintained. Of special note is the iconic Wedding Cake House—a bog standard brick structure wrapped in baffling, ornate woodwork. My mind aches to imagine repainting any of these places.

  

  

• Sit Still—Maine is perfect for pondering. Little things. Big things. Or no things. Find a spot that stirs your soul and simply makes you stop. The beach is a natural such venue. Another one is this bench with a sublime view over meadows and tidal pools, with the sea way in the distance. Where is it? Well, that’s my secret (but if you drive from Cape Porpoise to GRB you just might discover it for yourself).

  

• Make Makeshift Art—Get your hands on some cool rocks, old rope, shells, sticks, a bucket of sand, whatever. Arrange, stack, sort, whatever. See what you can create. Don’t think too hard, just make it. The evidence or your artistry will get washed away with the next high tide.

  

Eat & Drink

• Cape Porpoise Kitchen—From dawn to dusk, this long-standing gourmet deli dishes out consistently great food to go. Breakfast sandwiches, salads, prepared dishes, and sweet treats—it’s all amazing, as is their wine selection. Start with a River Club sandwich and take it from there. Once you discover Cape Porpoise Kitchen you’ll swing by every day.

• Cape Porpoise environs—There are half a dozen or so restaurants in and around Cape Porpoise, including a couple right beside the pier. They have a habit of changing hands from time to time, so I’m reluctant to put my stamp on any of them. But there are always some goodies, so ask a local and they’ll tell you where to go (so to speak).

• Langsford Road Lobster & Fish House—Okay, there is one very, very special place in Cape Porpoise that I’ll point you to. But you must promise that if you go you’ll be super duper nice, because these fine folks deserve nothing less. So here’s the deal—it’s really more of a lobster pound than a restaurant. 99.9% of their trade is selling live lobster and fresh fish to be lugged back home. The wise and lucky 0.1% will know that if you walk through the shack to the back deck you’ll find three picnic tables. Order your lobsters, clams, and whatever at the front and ask them to cook it for you. They’ll happily do that and bring it to your picnic table. Don’t forget some tuna, salmon, and scallop sashimi—they can do that too. As you feast on ludicrously fresh seafood you’ll be overlooking the stupendously picturesque bay. One of the best views in Maine.

  

  

  

• Goldthwaites—Much-loved, 100+ year-old general store and restaurant in Biddeford Pool. Order inside and take your food out back where you can plunk yourself in an Adirondack chair and eat up the coastal scenery.

• Goose Rocks Dairy—Even if you think you’ve had too much for dinner (which you probably have) you’ll find a way to devour the gargantuan portions of ice cream served up by a small army of college students. I genuinely believe their “Kiddy Cones” (the smallest option) are so named because they’re the size of a child’s head. Anyway, this strangely located ice cream joint is a must. Cash only (I won’t make that mistake again).

• The Tides—I haven’t eaten at the restaurant in this boutique hotel (see more below) for a while, so I can’t vouch for the food (certainly looks yummy). However, I can personally guarantee a sunset cocktail at the bar or front patio is a capital idea.

Shop

• Kennebunkport—Close your eyes and imagine a postcard-perfect New England coastal village. See the boats in the harbour, the church steeple rising above the trees, the old wood buildings painted friendly colours, leaning this way and that? Open your eyes. You're in Kennbunkport. Now see all the tourists in their preppy outfits, making their way from one shop to the next, looking for something to do, something to buy—maybe some fudge to remember the moment? You’re still in Kennebunkport. Twee and predictable, sure, but always kind of fun.

  

• Perkins Cove—The prettiest part of Ogunquit. A charming little collection of shops surrounded by the sea. Many of the same attributes as Kennebunkport.

• Freeport (and L.L. Bean)—About an hour’s drive north of GRB, Freeport is the place to go for serious and satisfying back to school (or back to anything) shopping. L.L. Bean put this town on the map and remains the retail and cultural kingpin. Their canvas totes are legendary, and they have bags more to offer the seasoned or aspiring outdoorsy-type. Within a 5-minute walk you’ll find plenty of other top name outlet stores, like Patagonia, Ralph Lauren, North Face, Cole Haan, and so on. Freeport is unabashedly commercial, yet somehow still a charming retail experience.

• Antiques—With each visit to Maine I find fewer and fewer antique shops. Sigh. Genuinely good ones are rarer than a Queen Anne highboy chest. Carboni Antiques in Wells is reliably excellent, as are its neighbouring shops. The Old House Parts Company stocks a fascinating collection of . . . you guessed it. And if you’re okay driving for an hour, Cornish Trading Post, is superb.

  

• Snug Harbour Farm—One part greenhouse, one part garden-y shop, and one part living museum of phenomenally good taste. I must admit, I’ve purchased very few things at Snug Harbour over the years—mostly because their insanely cool topiary potted plants can’t cross the border to Canada. But I go every year, without fail, to wander around and soak up the simple beauty of it all—the pleached apple trees, the peacocks, the dovecote, and the terracotta-filled shed. Unfussy perfection.

  

Stay

• House Rental—If you can swing a Saturday-to-Saturday vacation, your best bet is to rent a house (ideally at GRB). Having your own place to spread out and host family and friends is the summer vacation dream. Get a place near the beach and you’ll go days without putting on shoes. Like a life partner, when you find a good house you’ll want to hold onto it for dear life. When I say “good”, I basically mean good location and good price, not fancy pants. Airbnb isn’t much use for GRB, so write down this name and keep it somewhere safe—it’s gold: Susan Hill (GRB Maritime Realty), (207) 967-4246.

  

• The Tides—The only hotel directly overlooking the beach in GRB. Iconic and lovely. You’ll pay a price for the location and comfort, but it’ll be worth it.

• AWOL—I’ve never stayed here, but it looks fun and the location on the edge of Kennebunkport is terrific. The Deluxe Cabin Studio is calling my name.

• Kennbunkport Captains Collection—Same owners as AWOL, but a more traditional boutique hotel vibe. Comprised of four historic mansions (some of which once belonged to sea captains), this hotel sits quietly amongst massive old trees and scenic streets.

  

• White Barn Inn—A classic inn that’s been around for decades. Recently folded into the Auberge Resorts Collection, so it’s climbed a few rounds up the luxury ladder.

• Wanderer Cottages—The location leave some cold, but the design and decor of this re-imagined collection of tiny cottages is warming indeed. If I was twenty-something on a sassy weekend getaway I’d want to stay here.

Read

• These three books will complete your immersion into the salty waters of Maine’s style and spirit:

  • The Maine House

  • The Maine House II (Note: even better than the first book)

  • Remodelista in Maine